Exploring and Birding RSPB Rainham Marshes

 “The great majority of people do not recognize that wildlife is in trouble simply because they have forgotten what it should look like.”

Michael McCarthy, The Moth Snowstorm

 

Journey to Rainham Marshes

 
Before setting out on a voyage to Norway, we still had another day in town to explore.  As such, a day after hiking the Thames Path National Trail and visiting the London Wetland Centre, we moved locations to the suburb of Purfleet, which is closer to our port of departure - Tilbury Town.  This move also gave us the opportunity to explore and go bird watching and exploring at RSPB Rainham Marshes, which suited our plans perfectly!

Navigating the London Metro and C2C Train

 
Having woken early and enjoyed a coffee and snack in our room, we were packed and checked out of our Hounslow hotel just before 11 AM.   After which, we made our way back to Hounslow Central Metro Station, where we got a train to Green Park Station, switched lines to go to West Ham Station.  Once in West Ham, we then purchased tickets for the C2C train that would take us on to Purfleet. 
 
Thankfully, the station staff at each location were really nice and helpful – though they were shocked when we told them that neither Vancouver nor Toronto (two of Canada’s largest cities) have such a complex metro system.  A quick glance at the difference between Toronto's Go Transit map of the GTA and London's metro system reveals the shocking difference between the two.

It was not long before we arrived at Purfleet, and we quickly dropped off our luggage at a local hotel before returning to Purfleet Station. 
 

Bird watching in Purfleet

 
From Purfleet Train station it was only a 15-minute walk until we joined up with the London Loop Trail that led us to RSPB’s Rainham Marshes. 
 
RSPB Rainham Marshes, on the eastern edge of the capital, is considered of the most important wetland reserves in southeast England.  The site is a restored expanse of ancient grazing marsh that has become a flagship site for bird conservation along the Thames Estuary, spanning the boroughs of Havering and Thurrock, and covers nearly 1,000 acres of meadows, wetlands, woods, and ponds. Once owned by the Ministry of Defence and used as a test firing range, the land was transformed into a nature reserve and opened to the public in 2006. Today, it forms part of the Inner Thames Marshes Site of Special Scientific Interest, and it is the largest wetland on the upper Thames.

 
The site is managed by RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds), and the reserve protects a rare and rapidly disappearing habitat, supporting breeding lapwings, redshanks, marsh harriers, bearded tits, and wintering flocks of wigeon, teal, and black-tailed godwits. Its mix of reedbeds, scrapes, wet grassland, and tidal edges provides essential feeding and nesting grounds for species threatened by urban development and habitat loss. With accessible trails, hides, and sweeping views across the river, Rainham demonstrates how large-scale restoration can transform former military land and abandoned properties into a thriving refuge for wildlife.  

 

Nearing the wetland, we passed quite a few people out jogging and walking their dogs on the sunny morning, and we were both surprised and delighted to spot a group of fellow bird watchers as well.
 
Looking out over the wide expanse of the Thames, we could see a steady stream of gulls and waterfowl flying in formation far out above the opaque waters, and ahead we could see a huge flock of birds forming a dark smudge in the sky above a distant landfill, where there were thousands, if not tens of thousands of birds wheeling and soaring overhead.

 
This makes for the second time that we have essentially visited a garbage dump to watch birds before boarding a ship - the last time being Wind Surf in St. Maarten the morning of our southerly Transatlantic sailing.
 

RSPB Rainham Marshes

 
Just before we reached the entrance to RSPB Rainham Marshes, we crossed a small footbridge over the Mardyke, its narrow channel controlled by a modest lock. Out on the muddy banks where the channel met the Thames, a small group of Northern Lapwings picked their way among seaweed-draped rocks, their movements quick and deliberate. 
 
A flock of Green-winged Teal paddled calmly in the tidal waters of the Thames nearby, joined by a loose group of Mallards.  Overhead v’s of honking Greylag Geese flew past, cutting through the soaring Black-headed Gulls that seemed to be heading towards the landfill in the distance.  At the tip of a little spit was a huge Greater Black-backed Gull, perched on the remains of a dock.

 

We turned toward the site of Rainham Marshes, and initially followed a raised Riverside Path, which parallels the Thames and overlooks the Purfleet Hide and the Marsh Discovery Zone. From this vantage point we spotted a Eurasian Kestrel hovering almost motionless above the marsh, wings trembling as it searched for movement below.

 
Nearby, a Water Pipit perched atop a berry-laden shrub, its subtle plumage glowing softly in the sunlight. Flocks of Eurasian Wigeons passed by overhead, and in a grassy meadow below Greylag Geese grazed methodically. We walked a short way before turning back to visit the modern Visitor Center near the entrance.  On our return toward the Centre, a familiar and friendly European Stonechat appeared briefly, flashing black, white, and rust tones before slipping back into cover.

 
When we stepped inside the center, we were greeted by a cheerful space that was clearly dedicated to education and Citizen Science.  A counter with coffee and tea stood along one wall, while posters and books on wildlife lined another.  A huge window overlooked the marsh, a birdfeeder drawing a colourful flock of tits, robins, and sparrows to the grassy area outside.  

A friendly volunteer explained that it was free to visit the property, although they did accept donations.  We were shown a map of the site and were explained as to what we might see in each part of the marsh.
 

Woodland Discovery Zone

 
After visiting the centre, we set out on a counter-clockwise loop around the marshes. The path first led us through the Woodland Discovery Zone, where brightly coloured European Robins sang from the undergrowth, their voices surprisingly bold and cheerful, even on a cool autumn morning. House Sparrows moved through the shrubs in restless flocks, and we passed the whimsically named Bugingham Palace insect hotel before continuing on toward the bird hides at the back of the property.

Along the way, we spotted two Eurasian Moorhens swimming quietly among the reeds in a small pool, so well concealed that we nearly missed them. We followed the meandering gravel pathway through the trees and shrubs, stopping often to investigate the interpretive signage along the route.  In an open field beyond the trees, a Grey Heron stood like a statue eyeing the water’s edge, while European Starlings lined the wires above the distant train tracks, rising and settling in rippling waves.
 

Ken Barrett Hide

 
From the Ken Barrett Hide, we looked out over a shallow pond that was alive with waterfowl. Northern Pintails and Northern Shovelers drifted across the surface alongside Green-winged Teal, several female Common Pochards, and a plethora of Eurasian Coots. On the muddy margins, Northern Lapwings fed alongside a Grey Heron and a flock of Canada Geese.

 

Overhead, European Herring Gulls and Great Black-backed Gulls flew slowly past.  As with our visit to the London Wetland Center, we soon discovered that each hide at the Rainham Marshes was occupied by an enthusiastic group of birders, many of whom seemed to be regulars.

 

Continuing along the Northern Trail toward Aveley Pools, we encountered Mute Swans gliding serenely through the water and Common Shelducks dabbling along the shoreline. In a small cattail-bordered pond tucked between the path and the road, a Little Grebe paddled quietly, occasionally vanishing beneath the surface.  It was amazing to discover just how many different species were tucked into this small property that was essentially part of the greater London area.
 

Shooting Butts Hide

 
The Shooting Butts Hide offered one of the most dynamic viewpoints of the day. Large flocks of Eurasian Coots crowded the Butts Scrape, while Greylag Geese streamed overhead in steady lines. In the mud below, a White Wagtail darted among the feeding Northern Lapwings, their feathers shimmering with green and violet tones in the sunlight.

 

Nearby, a Green Sandpiper and a Rock Pipit moved cautiously along the water’s edge, while a Reed Bunting flitted through the shrubs just outside the hide.

Above the fields behind us, a Common Buzzard circled lazily, joined by another Eurasian Kestrel. Far out in the distance, one kestrel perched atop a birdhouse roof, and soon after, a flock of Mute Swans landed heavily in a nearby field. Most unexpected of all was a Red Kite resting calmly on the grass behind the blind - a thrilling and unmistakable silhouette.  It brought to mind some of our favourite parts of Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Trail, where we often spotted these magnificent raptors soaring above the hillsides.
 

Purfleet Ridge Range Hide

 
As we continued past the closed Purfleet Rifle Range Hide, a Ring-necked Pheasant burst from cover and disappeared into the grass. We also spotted a Common Darter dragonfly clinging to a piece of weathered wood at a wetland lookout, a surprising find so late in the season. 

While looking around, we encountered another European Stonechat balanced improbably against a single blade of grass, swaying gently in the breeze.  Its distinctive call, like a couple of pebbles being rubbed together, reminded us of walking the sunny seaside cliffs of the Rota Vicentina in Portugal, where this gregarious bird was a constant companion.  While enjoying the Stonechat’s company, we kept our eyes open, hoping to catch a glimpse of a Bearded Tit at one of the grit trays placed among the cattails along this section of trail, but sadly, we were unsuccessful.

 
Nearer the Thames once more, European Herring Gulls filled the air again, their keening calls carried by the wind. Blue Tits moved through the shrubs in quick flashes of colour. Outside the Marshland Discovery Zone, a tiny cattail-ringed pond held both a Eurasian Moorhen and another Little Grebe, paddling quietly side by side.  Nearby another Water Pipit lingered, blending seamlessly into the muted tones of the marsh.
 

Purfleet Hide

 
Slowly, we made our way back around to the Purfleet Hide, where the water outside was busy with life: Little Grebes, Eurasian Wigeons, Green-winged Teals, Eurasian Coots, and Common Shelducks paddled around each other a mixed flock on the pond, while a resting Common Snipe tucked itself into the mud.

A Black-tailed Godwit fed methodically along the shoreline as Northern Lapwings continued their constant motion, joined overhead by Black-backed Gulls and a passing Grey Heron.  There was so much bird life we could have spent all afternoon in the marsh, but the light was already beginning to fade and the temperature was dropping, signalling that it was time to head back to our hotel.
 

Reflecting on RSPB Rainham Marshes

 
By the end of the day, Rainham Marshes had revealed itself as a place of remarkable variety. It was a reminder that even on the fringes of one of the nation’s largest cities, wildness persists, and nature can be accessed.  We stopped at the Visitors Center on the way out to thank the volunteer and offer a donation.  When we expressed our appreciation for this beautiful place and all the effort that had gone into protecting it and its inhabitants, the young man behind the desk replied, “It really is brilliant, isn’t it?”  That seemed to sum it up perfectly.

In the gathering twilight, we crossed over the bridge at the exit of the Mardyke once again, stopping to admire the Green-winged Teals resting along the banks and the Common Sandpipers bobbing at the water’s edge. 

A pair of Egyptian Geese now stood watchfully nearby, and a Lesser Black-backed Gull lingered along the shore, bringing our circuit of the local marshes full circle. 
 

New Perspectives

 
After a wonderful day spent in nature, we retraced our steps and made our way back to our hotel.  Here we collected our dropped off luggage and checked in.  Not much later, after freshening up in our new room, we made our way downstairs to the attached restaurant and pub for dinner. 

 
Done for the day and our time in Greater London coming to an end, we enjoyed a couple of pints and received something entirely unexpected – a piece of currency with King Charles III on it rather than Queen Elizabeth II. For those who are not used to seeing a monarch on their money, this might not seem like much – but having a new leader on our bills - something which will likely happen soon in Canada was a shocking moment.  Clearly, as with many things, the times are changing ... and so it is a good time for new adventures and new perspectives.
 

Evening in Purfleet

 
As the day came to an end, we watched as the sun set over the skyline of London, knowing that tomorrow we will head off a short distance to board Ambience and begin our voyage to Norway and the Arctic Circle.

 

As we have in the past, it is once again time to extend our line of slow travel across the face of the world, exploring new cultures and wondrous landscapes, as well as hopefully continuing to find new species of birds!  Tonight, we cleaned up and identified birds that we had spotted today before packing up and preparing for tomorrow, when our attention will shift from marshlands and hides to open seas and Norway!
 
See you on board!