Ambience Day 5 - Into the North : Ålesund Norway

“There are no foreign lands.  It is the traveller only who is foreign.”

Robert Louis Stevenson

 

Sailing the Norwegian Sea

 
Yesterday’s sea day aboard Ambience ended last night around 1:00 AM after hours filled with a spectacular display of northern lights. Shortly afterwards, as we passed the coast of the Shetland Islands, and Ambience adjusted course eastward in the direction of Norway. Transitioning us from being in the North Sea to sailing the Norwegian Sea.

Which begs the question - given that they are adjoining bodies of water, where does the North Sea become the Norwegian Sea? As it turns out, the transition from the North Sea to the Norwegian Sea happens just north of the Shetland Island archipelago (specifically, from a point called “Muckle Flugga” at ~60°51′ N). 
 

Morning on Ambience

 
Given our late night, even though sunrise wasn't until 8:01 AM this morning, it still felt early when we woke up at 6:00 AM to see that our ship was sailing down the fjord towards Ålesund, Norway. With the excitement of seeing a new country, I followed Sean up on deck to witness a truly spectacular sunrise unfold before my eyes.  Off the aft of the ship, the sky was beginning to turn almost unbelievably brilliant shades of red, pink, and gold, and from moment to moment, the light shifted and changed.

As Ambience slipped quietly through the cold, crisp morning air towards Ålesund, the mountains rose up as solid, black silhouettes against a sky of intense yellows and oranges on one side of the ship. They were so bright that photos of this morning will undoubtedly look enhanced to the point of oversaturation, but that was the raw, unedited show we witnessed with our naked eyes. 

On the other side of the ship, the snow-capped mountains appeared to glow a deep royal blue in front of a sky tinged with soft pinks and purples.  The warm yellow lights of Ålesund were tucked in at their base, seeming to float just above a sea of calm, silvery grey.  As more lights blinked on in the city, their reflections crept out into the water in long, wavering trails, creating a stunningly beautiful scene.

 
A narrow spit of land with a home built right on its tip captured our imaginations as we approached the dock.  By this point, the orderly rows of buildings and glowing white steeples of Ålesund were taking shape around us, and the sea was beginning to reflect the stunning reds and oranges of the rising sun.

 
On the harbour itself, we could see a commuter ferry busily moving back and forth between a very modern-looking terminal and the surrounding islands.  To our amazement, a large number of Hooded Crows landed on the railings of the ship, seemingly undaunted by close proximity to humans.

Breakfast on Board

We enjoyed the spectacular sunrise, amazed at how long the magical golden hour seemed to last.  This far north, at this time of year, the sun doesn't rise too far above the horizon, and as a result, it appears to move more slowly. This means that much of the daylight hours hold a magical quality that we only experience briefly each morning and evening farther south.  It was rapidly becoming clear that nature was the undisputed star of voyaging to Norway.

Reluctantly, as we began to feel a little chilly, and so we headed inside for a bite of breakfast in the Borough Market before disembarking to explore Ålesund.  As creatures of habit, Sean had an omelet with ham, and I had my typical bowl of porridge with fresh fruit and coffee. 

As we went back down to our cabin, we passed the ship’s dining room, Buckingham Restaurant, and stopped to admire a huge Halloween display that had been set up in the main entrance. 

 
It was complete with many very creatively carved pumpkins, several black shrouded skeletons, a plethora of tiny ghosts, and an abundance of spider webs.  It was very festive and elaborate, and it was clear the crew had spent a huge amount of time and effort in its creation.  What a wonderful Halloween surprise!

Excursion Possibilities in Ålesund  

 
For the passengers of Ambience, the day in Ålesund came with a wide range of optional shore excursions, each geared toward a different kind of traveller. Those interested in architecture could join the Ålesund on Foot and Art Nouveau Centre tour (£50 pp), while lovers of dramatic scenery could venture deep into the fjords on the Beautiful Hjorundfjord by Boat excursion (£125 pp). More relaxed options included the Ålesund and Surroundings tours (£45 pp), offered in both standard and “@ Ease” versions. For island explorers, the cruise line also offered a visit to the Islands of Giske and Godøy (£75 pp), or a cultural outing to the Sunnmore Open-Air Museum (£53 pp).
 

Exploring Ålesund

 
Around 8:45 AM, we disembarked and began exploring the town of Ålesund on foot for our first day in Norway. Having not purchased an excursion today, we would explore Ålesund independently. From the dock, we walked very carefully to the center of town, only a few minutes from the pier.  With our first few steps, we quickly discovered that the pavement and sidewalks were covered in a thin layer of black ice. 

 
At the center of Ålesund lies a long, narrow waterway that is lined on both sides with brightly coloured 3 or 4-story tall buildings.  The bright ochre yellow, greyish blue, dusky rose, falu red, green, and white of their walls reflected beautifully in the almost still waters they bordered.  To add to the romance, small sailing and fishing boats were docked along the waterway in front of the buildings, making for a very picturesque scene.

Historically, the colours of Norwegian buildings were used to denote their purpose or position in society.  The deep, earthy, falu red was used on fishermen's houses, barns, and boathouses to denote industry. Alternatively, ochre yellow was used on commercial buildings, workshops, and warehouses, as well as government and functional buildings like post offices, grocery stores, and ships. 

White typically denoted wealth, as the paint was expensive and required constant reapplication.  While I'm not sure this tradition continues today, the architecture of Ålesund is a clear example of the Norwegian tendency to merge form and function into something aesthetically pleasing. 

Winter Bathing

Although the air was chilly and there was frost on the ground, two ladies emerged from one of the homes dressed only in swimsuits and proceeded to take a dip in the salty waters of the ocean. 

Norwegian cold-plunging, or vinterbading, is a traditional wellness practice that involves immersing oneself in frigid water followed by a warm sauna session.  The two bathers didn't stay submerged long, but to our surprise, they took their time making their way back into the hotel, chatting away happily and looking completely impervious to the cold. Norwegians are certainly a hearty people!

Historic Warehouses

After stopping to admire the colourful reflections of the buildings in the waterway, the tall bronze Art Nouveau Statues, and the Celtic knots and colourful floral and botanical decorations on some of the buildings, we continued our explorations by heading along a quiet harbour front street that we assumed would lead us to a large green space along the water. 

 

The simple wooden buildings and cottages with their thick grey slate tile roofs were gorgeous in a simple but elegant way.  Outside, there were metal buckets, wooden planters, and colourful terra cotta pots that were filled with ornamental shrubs, trees, and flowers that were surprisingly still in bloom at the end of October.  Scattered among the blooms were nautical artifacts like ropes, floats, and old propellers, giving the community a strong nautical feel.

It was still relatively early, so the Fiskermuseet and Oluf Holme Museums were not open yet when we wandered past.  As such, we continued on, following a rocky pier out into the bay, at the end of which sat the small red and white lighthouse that marks the entrance to the harbour.  While we enjoyed the view, a large Hurtigruten ferry navigated quietly past, a passenger ship that functions as both ferry and cruise ship in Norway. Perhaps one day we will return and explore different parts of the country using this ferry system.
 

Birds of Ålesund

 
Among the colourful granite boulders that comprised the breakwater, we were standing on Sean spotted a wren.  This tiny, round, brown bird was incredibly quick and spent most of its time hiding in the crevices in the rocks, so it didn't get its picture taken for identification purposes.  We did, however, spot a pair of Common Eiders swimming in the mirror-like waters near the pier, as well as a couple of Great Cormorants perched on the buoys farther offshore.

We continued down the road a little farther, but soon had to turn around when we reached construction fencing that blocked the path.  As we made our way back, with buildings on one side and a tall granite cliff on the other, we noticed a red-breasted Eurasian Robin in one of the shrubs, hanging out with a group of very active Great Tits and Blue Tits. 

 
On a nearby cottage was a European Herring Gull perched on the slate roof, looking far bigger from this perspective than from the deck of ship.  We also started to notice how seamlessly Norway mixes its old historic and ultra-modern buildings together.
 

Wandering Ålesund

 
Above us, on the top of a hillside, towered a large yellow building with a grey slate roof and a magical-looking turret.  Curious as to see what this castle-like building might be, we climbed up the steep hill to find out, having images of a Norwegian Hogwarts dancing in our minds.

 

When we arrived on the sidewalk in front of it, we discovered the large yellow castle was indeed a primary school, and many children were currently being dropped off by parents who had accompanied them up the steep streets on foot.  Apparently, the school offers enhanced education for newly arrived minority-language pupils.  We found it interesting that, unlike North America, where the largest and tallest buildings in a city are often banks or insurance companies, here in Norway, the dominant structure was an educational institution.  Surely this says something about our priorities. 

Ålesund Church

On our way back down the hill towards the main tourist area, we passed by the Ålesund Church.  The simple, small stone building was built in 1909 after the old church from 1854 was burned down in the Great Fire of 1904. 

 
The church is constructed from concrete and covered in Norwegian marble, and it is decorated with stained glass windows and frescoes. Unfortunately, during our visit, the outside was covered in scaffolding, and the building was closed, but we did stop to admire the restoration work being done on the stone carvings of Celtic knot work around the doorways.

Cookies and Kaffe

When we arrived back at the harbour, we stepped into the warm, aromatic embrace of the Bakeri Konditori to warm up with a hot drink and a snack.  There we had a delicious and most unexpected surprise! 

 
The bakery was packed with locals, all of whom seemed to be chatting happily, using a mix of Norwegian and English.  We waited in line, carefully surveying the long glass cabinet full of enormous cinnamon buns, small, thin waffles, yummy-looking sandwiches wrapped in paper, and a huge selection of pastries, squares, and cookies. 

Sean settled on a sugar cookie in the shape of a pumpkin to celebrate Halloween, while I selected a raisin and cranberry cookie.  We both ordered a shot of espresso, and ... oh, my!  The cups were microscopic, but they contained the richest and strongest coffee we've ever tasted!  The liquid was actually thick, it was so strong.  Who would have thought?  We were instantly hooked on Norwegian Kaffe culture!
 

Main Street Market

 
Fueled by our unexpected caffeine boost, we decided it was a good time to tackle the ascent up Mount Aksla to the popular viewpoint at the top, which affords panoramic views over the city and the surrounding archipelago.  We set off, making our way down the cobblestone streets of the main shopping district. 

 
The quiet streets were lined with shops selling outdoor gear, elegant clothing, knitted Norwegian sweaters, tourist souvenirs, and more.  We also spotted a small shop that was stacked floor to ceiling with colourful wheels of cheese that captured the imagination, as well as several bars and restaurants that appeared to provide woollen blankets and pillows for patrons using their outdoor patios.  What a great idea!

As we strolled the main street, we noticed an abundance of small wooden trolls in the souvenir shops, and there were several statues of the mythical creatures along the tree-lined street.  Trolls are deeply ingrained in Norwegian folklore, where they are depicted as gnarly creatures that dwell in the mountains, forests, and caves of the country. These mischievous and sometimes malevolent beings are often portrayed as large, grotesque, and hairy, with a penchant for causing trouble for humans. The most famous characteristic of trolls in Norwegian legend is their vulnerability to sunlight - if they are caught in the daylight, they turn to stone. Their presence is a symbol of the wild, untamed forces of nature, and they represent the mysterious and mythical side of Norway’s rugged landscape. Today, trolls clearly continue to capture the imagination of locals and visitors alike, which presumably explains their presence in downtown Ålesund.
 

Waterfront

 
As we re-crossed the marina on the harbour front, we noticed a line of locals gathering along the gangways.  Upon closer inspection, we realized that a line of boats was selling fresh seafood from the dock.  One small vessel had large tubs of ice filled with bright pink shrimp, while another had a long line of live lobsters on a table, each with their claws tightly bound.  The two fishermen in a third boat were cooking something in a steaming pot on the deck, ladling out large scoops for waiting customers.  Locals were engaged in lively conversation with the fishermen, and many left with plastic bags filled with fresh seafood.

While crossing the marina, the seafood market wasn't the only thing that captured our attention.   Along the base of the pilings that held up the dock, we spotted an incredibly colourful array of bright orange, purple, white, lilac, and olive green sea life.  In particular, a forest of bright orange Plumose anemones caught our eye, growing like a dense and magical forest on the side of the dock. 

 
Curiously, the white anemones, which to our untrained eyes looked larger and much frillier than the orange ones, turned out to be the same species.  Plumose anemone is found primarily in cold and temperate waters, growing along rocky shorelines, kelp forests, and deep-sea habitats, often attached to rocks and piers.  Its colourful stinging tentacles resemble the soft, flowing feathers of a plume, hence its name.  They are used to capture and immobilize their prey, which includes plankton, small fish, and other drifting organisms. 

 
We also stopped to admire the delicate umbrella-like shape of a lilac coloured Many-ribbed Jelly floating in the magical underwater forest.
 

Hiking Mount Aska

 
As we continued on towards the base of Mount Aksa, we paused to watch a Common Eider female diving for shellfish along the pier.  As we watched, one of the birders from the ship stopped to ask if we'd seen the Sea Eagle yet. Sadly, we had not, but apparently he had spotted one near the base of the climb, which spurred us on in that direction to test our luck. 

 
Ultimately, we did not manage to spot the elusive sea eagle, but as we followed the pathway leading up the lookout, we passed through a gateway with another surprise on it - a marker for the St. Olav's pilgrimage trail, a path we hope to walk the length next summer.  We will visit the end-point of the pilgrimage tomorrow at the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, but it felt unexpected and heartwarming to encounter the trail here in Ålesund.

 
A lovely park filled with huge, old trees covered the base of Mount Aksa.  Many of the majestic chestnut trees still had their leaves, which were fading from gold to brown in a thick carpet on the wet, grassy ground. 

 
The gravel path snaked through the park and soon turned into a well-worn stone staircase that switch-backed up the side of the hill.  The lookout point at the Fjellstua sits at the top of 418 steps, and it is a popular place for tourists and locals alike.  We had intentionally left the climb until later in the day in the hopes that the narrow, steep steps would be less crowded, and as we began the ascent, it looked like we had chosen wisely.
 
Almost right away, we stopped, our attention was captured by a flash of bright red in the trees below us.  From the trail lookout, we could see down onto the neighbourhood below us, and we soon realized what the source of the commotion was.  The tree canopy around us was alive with activity because one of the houses below us had a birdfeeder! 

A lively mixed group of House Sparrows, European Robins, and Eurasian Blue Tits were busily fluttering between the feeder and the surrounding trees.  However, for us the highlight was a large black and white woodpecker with a red behind - a Great Spotted Woodpecker!  This was a new species for us, which was an unexpected gift.
 
Soon, we continued our climb, grateful that it was a cool, overcast fall day.  Along the way, we passed multiple benches and resting places and a small glass platform overhanging the slope provided an official lookout point about 3/4 of the way up the hill.  After a few pauses to catch our breath and enjoy the ever-improving view, we found ourselves at the top. 

 
Fjellstua, located on Mount Aksla in Ålesund, Norway, did indeed offer a breathtaking panoramic view of the city, its pastel-coloured buildings, and its surrounding archipelago.

 

Sadly, the café at the viewpoint was closed, but we were still able to enjoy the view of Ålesund stretched out below us, the fjords beyond, and the nearby islands. We could even see Ambience docked down below, looking very large, at the pier beside the town.  Together with the snow-capped mountains and forested slopes, the spectacular view was well worth the effort of climbing the 418 steps!
 

Understanding Ålesund 

 
Only after spending some time on foot we began to wonder why Ålesund felt so visually unified - why the streets seemed to belong to a single style and moment rather than layers developed over time. From the viewpoint on top of Mount Aksla, the city finally came into focus.   

 
Ålesund is a coastal community perched across a chain of narrow islands where the fjords meet the open ocean. Unsurprisingly, life here has long been tied to the sea, with the town developing as a major fishing port at the mouth of the Storfjorden. Although the region has been settled since Viking times, the modern city of Ålesund emerged after a devastating blaze in 1904 that destroyed nearly the entire town in a single winter night. 

In an extraordinary national effort, Norway rebuilt Ålesund within just a few years, transforming it into one of Europe’s finest expressions of Art Nouveau architecture - complete with turrets, pastel façades, wrought-iron details, and flowing stonework. The reconstruction gave the town its distinctive and remarkably cohesive appearance.
 

In Search of a Local Pint

 
Eventually, we made our way back down the steep steps, finding the descent harder on the knees than the climb up had been.  When we reached the bottom, we looked for a place to step inside and warm up.  Strangely, although Ålesund is a large and modern town, we found very little open in the early afternoon. 

 
Eventually, we stumbled across the Dirty Nelly Irish Pub, which was open.  While it seemed counterintuitive to visit an Irish Pub while in Norway, we stepped through its glass door, which was already decorated with Christmas garland, into the cozy interior.  Soon we were seating a low table along the wall, deep in conversation with a lovely British couple from the ship who had been to Norway several times before, and who also enjoyed exploring beyond the usual tourist attractions.

Our 2 pints cost us 270 K,R, which is about equal to 27 dollars Canadian. Regardless, we enjoyed them and in the process had the opportunity to chat with several local Norwegians for a bit about our trip.  They claimed that the northern lights used to be rare and never this far south, but that things had been changing for several years.

As we sipped a second pint of Norwegian beer, the pub began to fill up with locals.  Slowly, they filled the tables and chairs around us until we were sharing our bench with another couple.  They spoke perfect English and engaged us in conversation that included tales from their weekly meetings in the pub to stories from cruises they had been on in the past.  We were very pleased to find ourselves in the company of locals, and once again we were struck by how happy, friendly, and calm Norwegians seemed to be.
 

Return to Ambience

 
We had to be back on the ship by 5:30 PM, but we were in no hurry to return to our (very warm) cabin and so we held off as long as possible, but as the light began to fade toward darkness, we made our way back.  When we stepped back inside the ship, we were greeted by a smiling crew member who offered us glass mugs of mulled wine with orange slices floating in them.  They were an extra charge, but what a lovely warm welcome back on board!

 

After warming up for a few minutes, we headed up onto the top deck to watch the sail away.  We were greeted with another magical sight, as the ship spun in almost 360⁰ as it navigated away from the dock and around a small island before slowly heading down the fjord. 

As the light behind the mountains faded from deep blue to black, the white lights of Ålesund sent their warm golden reflections into the water.  Our first day in Norway was enough to make us fall in love with this wild and beautiful country that felt clean, calm, and quiet. 
 

Dinner Chaos

 
Tired but happy after a long day of exploring, we didn't feel up to spending two hours sitting down to a full meal in the Buckingham Restaurant.  Instead, we headed to the Borough Market, hoping to get a quick bite to eat.  

However, it seemed that many other passengers had had the same idea, and trying to navigate the buffet as two tired, polite Canadians among a sea of hungry, determined British cruise passengers felt like an epic battle.  Every time we approached a counter, we were met with a chorus of forceful 'sorry...sorry...sorry' as someone poked us in the backs, or roughly elbowed their way in front.  A quiet Canadian reply, 'Oh, after you!' only seemed to fuel their relentless quest for what they evidently saw as the last piece of food on the ship. 

 
Clearly, we aren't cut out for the no-holds-barred competition of a cruise ship buffet line, but we did appreciate the effort the crew had put into the menu and decorations for Halloween.  Tonight, many of the dishes had been creatively renamed and reshaped, so that some of the cookies had fangs and the jello had been shaped to resemble brains.

Duck Hunting on Ambience

 
The reminders that it was Halloween were not limited to the cookies in the buffet, either. The crew had done an extraordinary job decorating Ambience - pumpkins tucked into corners, cobwebs stretching across stair rails, and themed displays transforming familiar spaces into something festive and slightly theatrical. Ultimately, it would be a short evening for us, but as we wandered the stairwells and hallways, enjoying the atmosphere, we began noticing something unexpected - small rubber ducks.

 
Not one or two, but several of them. Some were tucked discreetly into corners, others perched boldly on ledges. Many were costumed, tagged, and carefully placed as though awaiting discovery. We had never encountered this on Queen Mary 2, Queen Elizabeth, or Wind Surf, and as two birders accustomed to scanning shorelines and marshes for waterfowl, we suddenly found ourselves engaged in something we never imagined - duck hunting on Ambience.

 
For those unfamiliar, hiding rubber ducks on cruise ships has become a quirky passenger-led tradition over the past several years. Cruisers bring small decorated ducks from home, label them with notes or social media tags, and secretly place them around the vessel for others to find - a sort of floating treasure hunt that has developed its own informal community (as outlined in several cruise publications). Once discovered, a duck can be kept, re-hidden, or posted online to share its journey. We spent nearly an hour searching - in stairwells, along hallway art ledges, beside Halloween displays - discovering amazingly creative, “banded” (as I couldn’t help but think of them as banded) rubber ducks in costumes and with handwritten tags. It was entirely unexpected, slightly absurd, and surprisingly fun. Even on a voyage defined by Arctic horizons and Northern Lights, a small pocket of playful human creativity had found its place.

 

Halloween Night

 
As the evening continued, we began to see people walking around in quite elaborate Halloween costumes.  We admired their spirit and their efforts.  According to the onboard itinerary, there was a costume competition and Halloween dance in the Observatory tonight, but despite our best intentions, we are simply too tired to stay up for the 11:15 PM start time.  

We had been up late for the northern lights last night and had enjoyed a full day exploring ...or perhaps we are simply getting old. 

 
Exhaustion always catches up with us around Days 4 and 5 on a journey - whether on a trail or pilgrimage.  The same seems to be true on Ambience...or perhaps it is that we find ourselves in such a comfortable environment after a long year of continuous travel which began this spring on Wind Surf with a transatlantic crossing, leading us to trek across Spain on the Via Augusta, Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabres before returning home to complete our #Hike4Birds on the Trans Canada Trail.  

In many ways, we have been on the go since early April, and it is now the end of October....as such, with the lulling motion of the ship, we went to bed....after all, we need energy, as there are still 12 days left on this journey with the Northern Lights and Arctic Circle still to be experienced!
 
I have little doubt that tomorrow will be another exciting day as Ambience makes a stop in Trondheim and the adventure continues.
 
See you on deck!
 
Nautical Term for the Day: Deep Draught / Shallow Draught - A Draught or Draft is a ship’s depth below the waterline, which determines which waterways and fjords it can safely enter. Not all ships can visit shallow or tight inlets.  Where they can travel is based on their Draught.