Ambience Day 6 - Trondheim Norway and the Way of St Olav

Docking in Trondheim

“The pilgrim walks, the sailor drifts, but both are carried by something larger than themselves.”

Nidaros Cathedral Guide

 
There was no sea day between Ålesund and Trondheim, which meant that the beginning of today felt as though it arrived quickly.

When we looked out the porthole around 6:00 AM, the sky already looked like a watercolour painting of subtle shades of blues and purples that seemed to glow.  Sean headed up on deck immediately, and I followed after a hot shower, which helped to revive me for the coming day ahead.
 

Sunrise on Ambience

By the time I joined Sean on deck, the sky had transformed into brilliant shades of pink and gold that radiated with almost unbelievable intensity. 
 
Ambience was just sailing past Munkholmen Island, a tiny piece of land offshore from Trondheim.  The speck of an island is completely encircled in a defensive wall, inside of which resides a complex of buildings that over time have served as a Benedictine monastery, a defensive fortress, and a prison. 

Today, the island is a peaceful recreational area where people can walk paths and have a picnic.  The tall stone wall was lit with white lights, making it stand out against the silvery sea and the dark hills beyond. 
 
Beyond Munkholmen Island, the ship slowly approached Trondheim as the sky continued to brighten.

 
We watched as the ship slowly manoeuvred toward the dock, eventually coming to rest against the pier.  The town of Trondheim spread out around us, looking like a blanket of lights that sprawled up the slopes of the surrounding mountains.  Modern buildings with glass walls lined the harbour front, and beyond that, the tall green spire of the Nidaros Cathedral rose up behind a large Ferris wheel. 

 
One of the most impressive structures was an enormous aquatic center on the waterfront that had at least five swimming pools, one of which seemed to be suspended on the second floor of a glass atrium, appearing to float without support.  Once again, I was impressed with how well Norway blends historical and modern architecture into a coordinated and attractive cityscape.

Although the temperature was decidedly lower than it had been in Ålesund, and there was a pretty stiff wind blowing, there were quite a few passengers gathered on the upper jogging track to watch our arrival in Trondheim.  It was a stunning show, and we were happy to see so many people willing to brave the cold and early hour to appreciate it.  One lady began chatting with us, explaining that she had visited Norway 15 times before, many times on Hurtigruten or Havila ships.  She said the natural beauty and the way the experience changed with the seasons kept drawing her back, and she shared some interesting local history and suggestions for exploring on foot.  We were grateful for the advice.

Respect the Crew, Respect Each Other

As per our on-board routine, after docking, we stepped into the Borough Market for breakfast before heading out to explore.  Being creatures of habit, I enjoyed a morning meal of coffee, porridge, and fresh fruit, while Sean had an omelette with cheese and ham with his coffee.
 
We have voyaged often enough to know that travel rarely unfolds without friction, yet we have also been fortunate that truly entitled behaviour has seldom intruded.  Today, unfortunately, we saw a horrid display of privilege, rudeness, and xenophobia by a passenger delivered in a tirade against the amazing staff of Ambience, all over something as small as a glass (actually many many many glasses) of orange juice.    

 
In the Lido, we watched as an older man, shuffling about in his slippers and who regularly dominated the juice machine, once again emptied it, drinking 16 glasses (this is correct) in quick succession.  When the machine was out of orange juice, he quickly began having a fit - unleashing a torrent of racist abuse at a young crew member who, along with her supervisor, responded with remarkable patience and professionalism while trying to resolve the minor inconvenience. For nearly twenty minutes, the crew absorbed behaviour that no one should be expected to endure, until another passenger - a strong-willed elderly lady - finally intervened, refusing to let the abuse continue unchecked.
 
The moment was a sobering reminder that travel reveals character - and that supporting staff, rejecting entitlement, and treating all people with dignity is not optional, but essential.  The only acknowledgement that what he had been saying was wrong came when he mumbled a litany of “sorry sorry sorry” at the floor as though it would resolve the situation before shuffling off muttering about how he had to tolerate stupid people.

The moment passed, but it left a mark.  It was just one more painful reminder that the greatest strain on crew aboard ships is too often not the sea, but passengers who feel entitled to demean them. Yet it also reminded us that courage takes many forms-and sometimes it’s a fellow traveller choosing to stand up, loudly and unapologetically, for basic decency.  Sadly, this same man would repeat this routine almost every morning - drinking more than a dozen glasses of OJ while holding onto the automatic juice machine and refusing to allow anyone else near it until it was drained of orange juice - at which point he would once again berate the staff in a similar manner.
 

Trondheim Norway

 
It was just after breakfast that we were ready to step off the ship and explore.  Unfortunately, just around that time, a gentle rain began to fall. However, we were determined not to let it dampen our spirits as we set off to explore a little bit more of Norway, a country were rapidly growing to love.

 
The city of Trondheim, which was originally named Nidaros, was the first capital of Norway, founded in 997 by Olav Tryggvason, also King Olaf I, a Viking King.  The city sits at the mouth of the River Nidelva, where the waters meet the Trondheimsfjord.  Given its location, it was a trade route as well as a political centre.  It is also home to one of Norway’s most important medieval landmarks – Nidaros Cathedral, and so, much like Rome and Santiago de Compostela, the city would attract pilgrims from across Europe.

 
While Trondheim is no longer the capital of Norway, and despite centuries of history, the city’s wooden wharves, narrow alleys and vibrant culture mean that it has remained a popular centre.
 

Excursions Possibilities in Trondheim

 
Trondheim’s excursion possibilities offered by Ambassador Cruises reflect the city’s layered history and its easy walkability. Travellers wanting a broad introduction could join the Highlights of Trondheim tour (£65 pp), taking in everything from the majestic Nidaros Cathedral to the colourful waterfront warehouses. Those preferring a gentler pace had the option of Trondheim @ Ease (£42 pp), which offered the same essential sights with fewer steps and more time to simply absorb the atmosphere. For visitors who enjoy exploring under their own steam, Trondheim on Foot (£29 pp) provided a guided walk through the city’s charming streets and riverfront paths. Meanwhile, history buffs could delve into the city’s darker past on the War Time Trondheim excursion (£62 pp), uncovering stories of occupation, resistance, and resilience that still echo through its old neighbourhoods.
 

Exploring Trondheim

 
Disembarking Ambience, we walked along the waterfront to explore the city independently.

Our view of Trondheim from the pier was of 5-6 floor high modern buildings of glass and concrete that seemed to house a collection of research facilities, including the SINTEF Sea Lab and the Ocean Space Lab, both of which sounded very intriguing.  We also spotted a small and very futuristic-looking antonymous submarine docked out front in the marina, which quickly captured our imagination. 

With romanticized visions of deep-sea exploration filling our heads, we stopped to investigate a bright yellow Art Deco sculpture that looked like something from a science fiction movie.  A plaque outside invited visitors to sit inside the structure, which vaguely resembled a large deep-sea diving helmet that was adorned with a collection of funnels on top, each positioned to capture sound from a different direction. By sitting on the stool at the center, you could apparently listen to what the fjord had to say or listen to the “sounds of the sea”.  Of course, we stepped inside to hear its muffled whispers before continuing down the waterfront toward the center of town.

   

As we made our way towards the historic center, we noticed that most of the vehicles were electric.  It was almost eerie how clean and quiet the streets were, with the morning rush hour making almost no sound.  At one point, we passed a city bus parked down an alleyway, plugged in and charging on a long metal arm like a giant robot on standby.  The lack of fumes and grime that blanket most North American cities was noticeably absent, which made it seem like the city was begging to be explored on foot or by bicycle, and we soon realized that a network of pathways crisscrossed the city for just this purpose.

 
We crossed the train tracks that separated the pier from the town center on an elevated pedestrian walkway, and soon found ourselves climbing gently away from the harbour on the main street, complete with wide sidewalks and cycling routes leading to the Nidaros Cathedral. 

 
The spacious sidewalks were lined with a collection of shops, restaurants, and bakeries, and they were separated from the vehicle traffic by rows of lush-looking chestnut trees.  The large golden-yellow leaves were falling like confetti in the light wind and rain, collecting in drifts along the sidewalk that made a satisfying sound as we scuffed through them.  The walkways were not yet too busy, being mostly occupied by locals on their way to work who moved with refreshing speed and purpose. We had to smile at each intersection on this route, as the buttons for the lights on the pedestrian crosswalks all said 'Push to reset the world.' 
 
If only it were that simple.
 

Kaffe and Cinnamon Buns

 
As we climbed, the rain began to pick up, and the sky darkened, so we decided to succumb to the temptation of a coffee and pastry in the hopes that it was just a passing shower that could be avoided.  We stepped into the Godt Brod Bakeri and were immediately enveloped in the light, warmth, and soul-feeding aromas of freshly brewed coffee and home-baked bread.  We decided to each have a shot of espresso and to share a gigantic cinnamon bun, a delicacy Norway is apparently known for.  Once again, we were stunned by the thickness and strength of the rich, delicious coffee, and pleasantly surprised by the warm, moist, doughy bun that was flavourful without being sticky or overly sweet. 

 
As we watched the world hurry by outside the cafe windows, we began wondering how a Scandinavian country came to have such excellent coffee and an affinity for pastries made with spices, two things that grow nowhere near this part of the Northern Hemisphere.

Apparently, Sri Lankan cinnamon was introduced to Europe by Arab spice traders, and the first recorded cinnamon bun recipe comes from 16th century Germany.  The pastries were later introduced to Scandinavia by Hanseatic traders who brought spices like cinnamon to Bergen, Norway. The Hanseatic League, a powerful alliance of German merchant cities, controlled much of the trade in northern Europe from the 12th to the 17th centuries. Interestingly, the Hanseatic League was governed by an order that had deep historical roots in the Teutonic Order, a military religious group founded during the Crusades by the Catholic Church. The Teutonic Knights, originally formed to protect pilgrims travelling to the Holy Land, played a significant role in the Crusades and later expanded their influence across northern Europe, shaping not just religious and political landscapes, but also trade routes and cultural exchanges.  Who would have guessed that a cinnamon bun in a Norwegian bakery would have connections not only to the German gingerbread of my childhood, but also to the pilgrimage routes we've walked in Spain, Portugal, and France.
 

Trondheim City Square

 
After our break, we continued on up the street toward Torvet, Trondheim's main square.  Located at the intersection of Kongens gate and Munkegata, this large open space serves as the main meeting place for the city.  Many events and markets are held there throughout the year, including the world-famous Christmas Markets each December, the popular Martnan Market in June, and the renowned Trondelag Food Festival, which draws over 200,000 visitors each summer.  On this blustery and wet fall morning, it was filled with only a small crowd of tourists, many of them our fellow passengers from Ambience.

 

At the center of the square in Trondheim stands a towering statue of the city's founder, Viking King Olav Tryggvason, which is perched atop an 18 m (58 ft) tall obelisk. Erected in 1921, this striking statue, created by sculptor Wilhelm Rasmussen, is more than just a piece of art.  Apparently, the statue also functions as a giant sundial on clear days, with its column casting a shadow across a cobblestone clock face below.

 
Also, here is a tall white Ferris wheel known as the Opera Wheel, standing on one edge of the spacious square, rising 40 m into the air.  It wasn't yet open when we visited, but it did promise a spectacular view over the city to anyone adventurous enough to board one of its enclosed pods.  In addition to this tourist attraction, we were somewhat dismayed and a little surprised to see quite a few American franchise stores lining the square, including Burger King, McDonald's, and Starbucks.  This was by far the most 'touristy' spot we'd visited so far in Norway – the take-out shops sharply contrasting with the ancient feel of the historic city centre.
 

Nidaros Cathedral

 
We could see the tall green steeples of the Nidaros Cathedral rising up at the end of the street, so we continued on past the stately yellow and red buildings with their white trim, towards the imposing stone church.  This is the endpoint of the St. Olav's Way pilgrimage route, which we hope to walk in the near future, and we have seen photos and videos of the magnificent exterior of the building. 
 
We had been anticipating Trondheim for a long time, but as we navigated the city streets, it was clear that the cathedral and the city’s history carried a gravity that went beyond its size. 

Rising at the heart of Trondheim, Nidaros Cathedral has stood as Norway’s national shrine for more than 900 years, an extraordinary blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture built over the burial site of King Olav II, the nation’s patron saint. Construction began around 1070 and continued into the 1300s, creating what was then one of northern Europe’s most important pilgrimage destinations - and the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world.

Though it is now known by the name of Nidaros Cathedral, during the Middle Ages it was known as Christ Church, dedicated not to a king but to Christ himself. Its design may have drawn inspiration from great sacred sites such as Canterbury Cathedral in England, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, and Charlemagne’s chapel in Aachen, placing this northern sanctuary firmly within the wider spiritual styles of medieval Europe.

Olav’s story lies at the heart of this place. After travelling in Europe, embracing Christianity, and being baptized in Rouen in 1014, Olaf returned to Norway and played a central role in the nation’s conversion before being killed at the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030. He was canonized within a year, on August 3, 1031, and pilgrims soon began making their way to his tomb. While pilgrimage to Nidaros flourished from the 11th to the 15th centuries, it later declined after the Reformation and the prohibition on pilgrimages.

As such, by the mid-1800s, after centuries of use, neglect and a number of fires, the cathedral stood in poor condition. A restoration workshop was established in 1869, beginning a careful process of renewal that continues to this day. What visitors see now is therefore not only a medieval monument, but an ongoing project of restoration.

We walked up the street, and though we had a sense of what the cathedral would be like, nothing compared to seeing it in real life.  Before we could spend time admiring the front face of the massive cathedral, our attention was caught by a standing stone out front, inscribed as the 0 KM marker of the St. Olav Way.
 
Beyond this pilgrimage marker, and across the expansive courtyard, stood the ornate stone work, wood doors and stained glass windows of Nidaros Cathedral’s Western Front.  It read like a stone manuscript, its pale stone walls, soaring towers and densely carved façade.  Statues of biblical figures, saints, and Norwegian kings are presented in rows - serving as both a theological education and a political statement.

 
Reading the façade from bottom to top reveals a clear spiritual progression. Above the main doors, Christ is shown crucified; then further up, above the great rose window, he appears again as judge of the living and the dead; and at the very summit, Christ is depicted in heaven, completing a vertical journey from suffering to judgment to glory. High on the north tower, the Archangel Michael stands watch, a guardian figure visible from afar, while other saints and historical figures - among them St. Magnus - anchor the cathedral within both sacred history and Norway’s own story.

 
On the top of three rows of statues are the kings and prophets of the Old Testament, including Abraham, Samuel, Jonah, King David, John the Baptist, Moses, and King Solomon.  While on the left side of the middle row are Norwegian Saints such as Hallvard, Sunniva, and Olaf.  In the middle of this row are statues of the three theological virtues - Charity, Hope, and Faith. And on the right-hand side of this row are individuals present at the Annunciation, including Isaiah, Gabriel, and Mary. Beside these are figures depicting the Expulsion from Paradise, including angels, Adam and Eve as well as the four cardinal virtues - Truth, Compassion, Peace and Justice. Beneath all of these are Evangelistic Kings such as St Olav, St Denis, and St Francis, as well as Apostles such as St. James.

 
Unfortunately, Time, weather, and centuries of exposure have taken their toll - only five statues from the Middle Ages have survived, and what stands today is the result of one of Norway’s most ambitious restoration efforts. Beginning in the early 20th century and continuing for decades, the west façade was carefully rebuilt, eventually finishing in 1983.
 

Cathedral Exploration

 
At the welcome centre, we bought admission to the cathedral and the nearby museum, spoke to the very friendly and helpful staff member about English language guides to the St. Olav Way and pilgrim passports, which we foolishly didn't purchase, even as a large line built up behind us, and then went inside to explore the cathedral.

 

Stepping inside Nidaros Cathedral, the immediate impression is one of light and height.  It felt tall and lofty like Chartres, stunning in its detailing like Notre Dame, and filled with intricate stonework but lacking the gaudy gold of the cathedrals in Spain.  The stone work throughout made the structure feel both historic and permanent. 

 
Along the length of the space, the Gothic nave lifts the eye upward through pointed arches and ribbed stone vaulting, creating a sense of movement rather than stillness, as though the building itself was urging us forward.

 
Light filtered through tall windows, softening the stone and drawing the space away from the solidity of its Romanesque origins. 
 
Walking throughout, as pilgrims for centuries once did, there was a great desire to take it all in.  As we have felt in many other holy places, there was also an envy at those peoples who have had years to sit in mass and appreciate the subtle details of the space that a brief visit rarely reveals.

 
At the crossing, where nave and transept meet, the atmosphere seemed to shift. The thick-walled Romanesque transepts feel older, heavier, and more grounded than the Gothic sections of the church. Reminders of the cathedral’s earliest form and of a time when faith needed walls as much as windows.

Nearby is also the stunning Sami Chapel with its oiled wood carving.

 

Looking behind us, the great organ loomed – a presence that filled much of the western wall.   Above it, the large rose window, completed in the 20^th century, allowed light and colour to pour into the interior.  Deep Reds and royal blues shaped to depict Judgement Day glowed high above us.

 

Continuing through the cathedral, we passed into the choir and to the Octagon Ambulatory - the heart of the space and focus of medieval pilgrimage. This octagonal sanctuary was built around the tomb of St. Olav, and its surrounding ambulatory allowed pilgrims to circle the shrine, to approach and then move on.  The narrow space gave the faithful an opportunity to be close to the saint while also protecting his remains. 

  

 

Standing there now, it is impossible not to think of the countless journeys that ended here, and of the many that quietly began again as pilgrims stepped back out into the world.

 
Throughout the cathedral are also dozens of stained glass windows.  Made between 1908 and 1934, the windows on the north side of the cathedral show scenes from the Old Testament, while the southside has scenes from the New Testament. 

 
After wandering around, we descended into the crypt space below the cathedral.  The narrow stairs we took quickly gave way to a quiet space that felt worlds away from the soaring nave above.  Here, white-washed walls and gentle lighting pervaded.  Around the small vaulted room, information plaques and tombstones were on display.
 

Archbishop’s Palace

 
After our visit to the cathedral, we crossed the rain-soaked stone courtyard to the Archbishop's Palace - a long, low stone building with tiny windows, arched doorways, and a red roof that made it look like part of a Medieval castle.  Originally built in the 12th century as the residence of the Archbishop, it was once a seat of power, overseeing the archdiocese that stretched from Norway to Greenland.  Today, the building houses the Archbishop's Palace Museum, which is filled with artifacts from Trondheim's history, including medieval ecclesiastical relics and exhibits related to the Christian heritage of the region. 

 
Unfortunately, although perhaps unsurprisingly, to enter the museum, visitors must leave their backpacks and cameras in lockers at the museum's entrance.  Indeed, the young man at the entrance was quite upset that Sean had a number of cameras on him.

As such, although we had paid admission when we entered the Cathedral, we didn't end up visiting the museum, as Sean wasn't willing to hand over so many valuables to the upset young man at the front desk.
 

Nid River Trail

 
Though disappointed at not being to explore the Archbishop’s Palace, we continued our exploration of the city and soon found ourselves on the Midtbyrunden trail.  This cycling and pedestrian route circles the city center of Trondheim, following along beside the fjord, the channel, and the Nid River or Nidelva. 

 

The walkway was marked with the symbol for the St. Olav Pilgrim's route, and we had followed it down to the Marinan Park, a beautiful, treed green space on the banks of the river.  As we stopped to enjoy the sunshine and the view, we spotted a small group of Common Goldeneyes swimming in the river, while a group of Eurasian Wigeons huddled on a nearby island in the water.
 

St. Olav’s Way

 
Notably, the riverside trail that we followed was also a portion of St. Olav’s Way, a network of pilgrimage routes (Pilgrimsleden) that lead to Trondheim.  In the 11^th century, it was one of the most important pilgrimage routes in Northern Europe as the faithful came to Nidaros Cathedral to the site of St. Olav’s burial. At the time, the trails wove through forests, across farmyards, and along fjord landscapes.  In addition to accommodations for pilgrims, and Olav Fields for pilgrims to camp or rest their horses existed along the route. 

Along with other sites such as Santiago de Compostela, St. Olav’s Way fell into disuse during the Reformation and the prohibition of pilgrimages. 

 

Today, the restored pilgrimage to Trondheim follows several major routes, the most famous being the Gudbrandsdalen Path, stretching roughly 640 km from Oslo to Trondheim and considered Norway’s “main” Camino. Other routes begin in Sweden and Denmark, weaving Scandinavian history into the journey. Along the way, walkers encounter stave churches, Viking sites, rural hamlets, and traditional farms, with pilgrim hostels offering simple lodging and a renewed sense of hospitality.
 

Crossing the Nidelva

 
Our trail soon brought us to the iconic Old Town Bridge (Gamle bybro), which spans the waterway, connecting the old and new parts of Trondheim, built in 1681.  The walkway was crowded with tourists wandering around, pausing for selfies under the pair of beautifully carved wooden archways, and taking photos against the rails with the view of the city behind them.  

From here, the views of the iconic warehouses, called Bryggerekka, along the river were stunning.

 
We enjoyed a lovely view of the colourful warehouses and homes that lined the waterway.  They stood on tall wooden stilts, and their bright red, yellow, and green siding reflected on the river in the afternoon sunshine.  It was a very beautiful spot, and understandably it attracted crowds of admirers.

On the far side of the river, we found ourselves navigating narrow cobblestone streets lined with colourful homes in yellow, pale green, blue, and white.  A small cafe sat on the waterfront, overflowing with guests, as were the nearby shops, which sold handmade crafts and local delicacies.  We made our way slowly through the bustling village of Bakklandet, weaving carefully between pedestrians, cyclists, the race course, and road construction.  It was a very charming community, filled with character. 
 

Kristiansten Fortress

 
Afterwards, we continued our walk through the residential streets, choosing to follow signs for the Kistiansten Fortress.  En route, we trod along a gravel walkway that snaked up the side of a thinly forested hill, giving us lovely views out over the town behind us.  Soon, we popped out of the trees onto a wide, flat, open grassy area, the stone walls of the star-shaped fortress standing solidly ahead. 

 
Perched on a hilltop above the city, it offers panoramic views over the Nidelva River, the old town, and the fjord.
 
Kristiansten Fortress was built between 1682 and 1684 after a devastating fire to defend the city from attacks coming from the east and those coming from the river below to strengthen Denmark-Norway’s defences from Sweden.  Kristiansten Fortress saw action during the Great Northern War when Swedish forces unsuccessfully besieged it in 1718. During World War II, it was occupied by German forces, who used it as a strategic lookout and, tragically, as an execution site.

The historical fortress is open to the public was free to enter, and as we ducked through the thick tunnel leading under the walls, we felt as if we could be entering the Halifax Citadel in Nova Scotia, which we visited while hiking the Trans Canada Trail.  The stone walls with their cannons mounted on top, the grassy mounds and trenches, and the overall shape reminded us a lot of the British fortresses built across Canada. 

The one exception was the tall, white, stucco watchtower which stood at the center of the fort.  Its soft, moulded shape and rounded windows gave it a softer feel that seemed out of place in a defensive fortress.

 
We wandered around the fort a while, enjoying the panoramic views over Trondheim, the Nidelva River, and the ocean beyond it.  It was a stunning view, with the last of the fall foliage and colourful homes making a beautiful and interesting tableau below.  

However, a very stiff cold wind was blowing across the hilltop, inspiring us to descend once again into more sheltered neighbourhoods.  We were soon winding our way down incredibly steep cobblestone streets among a throng of other walkers.  The road, which was lined with beautiful homes, was so steep that every few blocks there was an obstruction made of hay and tires, presumably to stop runaway vehicles.
 

A Full Day

 
Feeling chilled and aware that we needed to start heading back toward Ambience, we made our way back through quiet, clean, and more modern neighbourhoods toward the shores of the Trondheim Fjord.   

We reached a beautifully landscaped waterfront park at Skansen, a marina filled with small white sailboats.  The wind was whistling and whining through the rigging and masts of the resting sailboats, creating a chilling and slightly eerie feeling of an approaching storm or impending doom.

 
We followed the pedestrian walkway along St. Ovas Pir, tracing along the waterfront and sandwiched between the brilliant blue waters of the fjord and a set of railway tracks along the trail.  We passed a small observation point, and then passed Sjobadet, a pier with a small lighthouse on the end that is used by locals as a year-round place for swimming.  Despite the chilly wind, a cyclist was just finishing a swim in the frigid ocean waters as we walked past. 
 

Irish Pub in Norway

 
Having an extra hour before we needed to be back on board Ambience, we made a stop at the Cafe Dublin Irish Pub & Restaurant for a pint of local beer.  The same couple we met yesterday in Dirty Nelly's in Ålesund were there as well, which led to a stimulating conversation.  

Soon, the light outside was fading fast, and we headed back to the ship for the 4:00 PM boarding time. 
 

Return to Ambience

 
The waterfront where Ambience was docked was only a few blocks away, and we the day’s light had begun to fade, we stepped back on board.

 
As we stood on the ship's upper deck, watching the lights of the city blink on, we noticed that the aquatic center was now alive with activity - all six pools were full, and the water slides were alive with activity.  Soon, the Captain announced that everyone was back on board and that it was time for sail away!
 

Dinner in Buckingham Restaurant

 
We soon headed inside and got showered and changed in preparation for dinner in the Buckingham Restaurant. For me, this turned out to be a delicious onion and cheese tart followed by vegetable chow mien.  

Once again, the conversation was lively and engaging.  It seems that many of the social, economic, and political challenges facing many parts of England are the same as those being experienced across Canada.  As a former colony, we had naively assumed that the United Kingdom might keep tabs on us - maybe even offer a nod of recognition or a bit of guidance now and again.  However, it seems that Canada is the quiet cousin nobody mentions at the family reunion, and no one really knows much about.

 
Indeed, it seems that many in the UK know little about Canada in general.  There are the usual assumptions about us as a country - that as a people we are polite, nice, and helpful.  That as a nation, Canada is very prosperous, has no problems, has a terrific medical system… in addition to which the country is full of beavers, bears and moose and has weather that stays at a constant minus 40 degrees.

 
One of the gifts of travelling is gaining new insights into how your country is perceived by others, and as always, it was an eye-opening experience.  
 

Evening at Sea

 
After dinner, we wandered into the Botanical Lounge to listen to some live music and try in vain to catch up on travel journals.  As we sat there, the Captain made an unexpected ship-wide announcement.  When Ambience leaves the fjord, she will be sailing into gale force 10 winds and seas with 4 m swells, so it will likely be a rough night as we continue our journey northward towards Tromsø and then Alta.  Announcements like this always make us long for the stability and strength of QM2. 
 

Around 8:00 PM, we headed to the Palladium Theater for the main event, a show called Global Explosion, which featured music and dancing from around the world.  The cast demonstrated their skill by almost perfectly executing quite elaborate and athletic dance numbers while the stage rolled, pitched, and shuddered beneath their feet. 

 
The audience absolutely loved the show, and we were once again left with food for thought.  Somehow, the way a UK-based theatre company presented the music and culture of the world is different from how a US company would do it, but for the life of me, I could not articulate how.  The result was neither better nor worse in my opinion, simply different.

 

After the show, around 9:30 PM, we returned to the Botanical Lounge with the best intentions of getting some work done, but the long day of exploring outside was catching up with us. 
 
Tomorrow will be a sea day as we continue northward along the coast of Norway, so perhaps this will give us a chance to catch up.  For now, it is time for bed.
 
See you on deck!
 
Nautical Term for the Day: Above Board - Originally meaning something visible “above the ship’s deck,” hence open and honest. Anything hidden “below deck” was suspect. The term now signals transparency and straightforward behaviour.